BD Fast Five: Lucy Kuper

Biologi has a 'less is more' approach to skincare, with its multi-use 100% active plant serums gaining traction in the beauty world. With skin fasting currently trending, we thought it was the perfect time to catch up with Lucy Kuper, Biologi's dermal specialist. Here, she weighs in on this skincare trend and why we should be minimising our beauty routines.

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What is the theory behind skin fasting and when did the trend emerge?

The theory behind skin fasting actually makes a lot of sense. It involves having a break from those overly complicated skincare routines and stripping things back. It is essentially the opposite of many of the trends we’ve been seeing lately such as K Beauty (which is all about skin layering with lots of products). These movements essentially complicated our skincare routines when our skin really doesn’t need that much.

The way skin fasting works is really very similar to the way dieting works – cut out all those ingredients you don’t need! At Biologi we promote eating a simple, wholesome diet that best serves your body, and it’s the same for you skin. Skin fasting allows you to basically Marie Kondo your bathroom cabinet down to the best multi-tasking products that really work. Gone are the Kardashian-esque contouring regimes and in is fresh and natural looking skin without all the layers. It’s the no-fuss approach to skincare!

I think the theory behind it has probably been around for a long time, but as a trend we’re only just seeing it pop up now! The main benefits are reducing the amount of toxins your skin is exposed to (which can often be the cause of inflammation and other skin concerns) and allowing your skin’s pH levels to balance out, revealing your natural glow. 

What benefits does it have on the skin immediately and overtime?

Skin fasting benefits the skin for a couple of different reasons that are related to your skin’s natural protective barrier. What many people don’t realise is that your skin can react to too much cleansing. Whilst removing all product build up and make up is incredibly important, you’re also removing all of the skin’s Acid Mantle which is a protective layer over the face that your skin needs for a balanced pH. Our skin is designed to naturally fight off environmental stresses and any infections and its ability to do this is affected by its pH level. So removing all the natural oils regularly and then adding a plethora of products basically confuses your skin and throws it out of whack. Skin fasting gives your skin time to breathe and encourages skin rejuvenation using your skin’s natural oils combined with maybe one or two great products.

The other benefit to Skin fasting is that you reduce any chances of a common skincare mistake – layering different products on top of each other which are actually cancelling out the active ingredients. Active ingredients are the things in your skincare that give you the benefits, but some of these ingredients can react with other active ingredients. For example, if you apply a Glycolic Acid to remove dead skin cells, then apply a product with Salicylic Acid, you can cause major reaction to the skin by stripping it which can be too harsh for your skin to handle. Or another great example is applying Vitamic C in conjunction with AHAs or BHAs – Vitamin C is really unstable, so any acids you layer it with will destabilise the pH balance and render it completely useless (or aka a total waste of time and money).

Skin fasting won’t necessarily benefit your skin immediately because it can take a little while for your skin to get back to normal. If you can imagine that your skin has gotten used to fighting off any chemicals that it has been exposed to, then it takes a little while for it to start functioning as it normally would. By removing all of the toxins out of your skincare routine, your skin will no longer have to store these in your cells, and can start the process of detoxification and rejuvenation instead. The benefit to your skin over time is phenomenal – it will encourage regular skin rejuvenation which means the skin will be functioning as it should, revealing glowy more youthful looking skin. It also reduces risk of inflammation which can be the cause of a myriad of skin issues.

Why does Biologi encourage a less is more approach to skincare?

Biologi encourages a less is more approach to skincare because your skin doesn’t really need that much to function effectively! Too many products or an overly complicated routine can actually have adverse effects on our skin in a couple of different ways. The first is stripping it off its natural oils that it needs for a balanced pH, which is often done by cleansing too much or over exfoliating. The second is the fact that too many products which will often contain synthetic ingredients means you’re coating your skin in chemicals. What many people don’t realise is that our skin cells actually retain toxins. So when you’re applying several layers of different products you are essentially allowing your skin to absorb so many different toxins into the skin’s layers. Over time, toxic build up can cause skin sensitivity such as rosacea, eczema or dermatitis.

Then there’s the fact that many people layer their skincare products without really understanding what each ingredient can do. Layering different products can effectively cancel out the benefits or in worse case scenarios - cause harsh reactions. 

Biologi serums were all created with the idea of Skin fasting in mind, allowing you to get your skin back to its natural self. We wanted to create serums that un-do all of the damage that some synthetic products can cause. We’re proud to say we offer a world-first in skincare, being the only serum in the world that offer 100% active organic plant extract serums. Biologi’s active-ingredient serums have a profound effect on the skin, changing it on a cellular level and delivering on the promise that the product truly works. 

What is the importance of only using products with a high percentage of active ingredients?

Active ingredients is essentially the part of the product that has all the benefits to the skin. However unfortunately most skincare products have included active ingredients at about 2%. This means that you’re usually only getting 2% of an ingredient that actually has a benefit to the skin, and the rest is filler ingredients like water or emulsifiers. The good news is that Biologi serums contain100% active ingredients. This means that as it works in the plant, it works on your skin.

Biologi serums are water soluble and able to penetrate deeper into the epidermis to repair, restore and give your skin a more even and hydrated glow. Biologi’s innovative extraction method harnesses the plant’s internal process and the untouched combination of phyto-actives to provide a 100% active plant serum which means your product functions, works and operates exactly as it does within a plant. And, because Biologi’s products are used to working in a cellular environment, they work on your skin exactly as they work in the plant…giving you results!

Is skin fasting suitable for every skin type or are there people who should tread with caution before trying it?

This is a question that does really depend on your current skin state and what else you do in your lifestyle. Let’s just say there is such a thing as too much when it comes to our skincare routines! We believe skin fasting can be a benefit to most skin types however you do need to look at your overall lifestyle too. There are many other factors beyond just your skincare products that can be having an adverse effect on your skin. Things like smoking, pollution, sun exposure and hormones can all effect your skin in many ways, and changing up your skincare routine won’t be a quick fix for any underlying issues. Everyone’s skin is different so it’s about finding out what’s right for you.

If you do find you’re having skin issues, skin fasting is an incredible way to try and understand what the cause is. Many people don’t realise that their skincare or make up products are actually the thing that is causing their skin issues. So by gradually reducing your regime and cutting out certain products, you’ll start to notice changes in your skin which you can then attribute to how your skin reacts with certain ingredients. With skin fasting, for most days you can get away with just cleansing and then applying a hydrating serum (and then exfoliate once a week).